If you’re fortunate enough to hail from a household in which omelettes and French toast are viable contenders for accompanying your morning cup of joe, I’d like to know if you’ve ever been asked this question: “breakfast—savory or sweet?”

As a late riser, and therefore someone thoroughly unaccustomed to the ritual of eating before noon, I never needed to entertain such a dilemma. And really, I would have been content with cereal. Or portable yogurt. It took me years to figure out what hotels meant by a “continental breakfast,” and a couple more to understand why anyone bothered with it.

This being Australia, though, where skipping brekkie is nothing short of heresy, I made an effort to conform.

Bills offers two items of equally tremendous standing: ricotta pancakes smothered in honeycomb butter and decadent enough to be dessert, and airy corn fritters that can somehow stand up to bacon, tomatoes, and avocado salsa. Alas, servings are big, even when you’ve overslept breakfast yet again and have to console yourself by pretending you’d always intended on going straight to lunch, and a sane person should not attempt both.

I’m embarrassingly indecisive when it comes to ordering at restaurants, but especially when I have to choose between my sweet tooth and my addiction to salt. So when the waitress asked, with breezy insouciance, if I wanted half-portions of each, I said yes, immediately. You don’t always get the best of both worlds, so when you do, you must partake, and with gusto.

Now a chain of restaurants spanning an eclectic range of locales (London and Honolulu, as well as Tokyo and Seoul), the original Bills, with its bright interior and expansive central table, is still worth a visit for the ambiance. Lunch-only dishes like poke salads and sticky pork belly are offered, but a first-time visit, no matter the time of day, should really consist of the breakfast classics: sweet corn fritters and ricotta hotcakes (pancakes). Half-portions are available, should you find yourself dining alone or wish to try some of the other fare.

433 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst (other locations in Surry Hills and Bondi Beach)
Mon-Sat: 07:30-15:00; Sun: 08:00-15:00
02 9360 9631
Around 30 AUD per person

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